Sydney, Part 2

In wasn't even lunch time yet, and it was HOT. The zoo was all concrete and asphalt, which didn't help. On the ferry ride back to Sydney Cove, I started to think about how nice a swim would be. The only problem was that Australia featured more things in the water that could kill you then anywhere else. That morning's paper read like the script for JAWS V: "Hammerhead sharks sighted at Bronte, Bondi, and Tamarama beaches," read one 4 Jan 08 headline. One shark was 1.8m long! They had all been chased off, but the biggest returned within a few hours. "Record level of sightings, 10,000+ in 15 months" another headline said. In the sports section was an article about a female pro surfer who was returning to the waves after losing an arm to a shark attack. A few weeks later, I read my personal favourite, the story of Syb Mundy: "Diver tells of escape after third attack in two days," was the byline, but nothing could top the headline, " 'I beat off a shark with my fists.' " The guy saved his cousin who was being thrown around "like a rag doll" by a 5-meter long "ocean monster."

For those who don't know, I have a healthy fear of sharks. In fact, I occasionally think of my life as the time between birth and when I get attacked by a shark. Healthy decisions extend that that time, which made a swim at one of Australia's beaches seem to be just about the worst decision I could make. Hot...swim...sharks...hot...swim...then the map lead me to an alternative: the Sydney Aquatic Centre. A swim in the shark-free pool from the 2000 Summer Olympics and an opportunity to see the rest of the Olympic Park sounded perfect.

On my way back to the hotel to get my suit & towel, I decided to stop at the library. Since arriving in Tonga, I had developed a little fascination with James Cook. My visit to New Zealand had doubled that interest, and I had heard that Cook's original journals were housed at Sydney's main public library. On the way in, I was greeted by another famous figure in Australia's history: Captain Matthew Flinders. His bravery, though, was nothing compared to that of his cat. " 'To Trim,' " read the iron cat's plaque, " 'the best and most illustrious of his race, the most affectionate of friends, faithful of servants and best of creatures. He made the tour of the globe, and a voyage to Australia, which he circumnavigated, and was ever the delight and pleasure of his fellow voyagers.' Written my Matthew Flinders in memory of his cat."

Cook's actual journals weren't on display...or so I was told...but a friendly librarian led me to a photocopy. The first page was an account of the journal itself, describing the proceedings of H.M. Bark Endeavour's voyage "round the world" 25 May 1768-23 Oct 1770 (Cook's first voyage), written by the ship's clerk and signed by Cook. I flipped the page with great anticipation that quickly became great disappointment. Whoever had written this - Orton, the ship's clerk, or Cook himself - had horrible handwriting! If I squinted, I could make out the large titles such as "Description of King George's Island" and "Remarkable Occurrence in the South Seas," but the actual descriptions and occurrences were indecipherable. A copy of Bligh's account of the mutiny on the bounty was also there, and was much easier on the eyes. Abel Tasman's journal presented the problem of being in Dutch. I decided I had been lucky enough to see Cook's signature and some eighteenth century handwriting, and made a mental note to find a print version later.

Cook, frowning because he can't make out his own handwriting. "New Zealand or Zeeland...? I'll just alternate between them and let history decide."

The Olympic pool was PACKED, this being summer holidays (in January!? Truly I was Down Under). Sadly, the pool where several Olympic records were set had been reduced to a children's water park. Waterslides, climbing gyms...it was Australia's Crododile Island and Hook's Lagoon. I swam, ate sushi (not at the pool), and called it a night.

P.S. - When I was trying to find a lick for Crocodile Island, I found out Warner Bros. SOLD Six Flags Darian Lake! The Superman Ride is there, but it's not the "Superman Ride" anymore! They took out the Batman Thrill Spectacular show!! Oh, cruel world.