Battle of the Landing Points, Part 1: Captain Cook

The tourist attractions of Tongatapu are fairly limited, but one thing there are plenty of, is “landing points.” There are three marked on this island, celebrating the arrival of various Europeans. I’ve been to them all, and now I solve the mystery of just who has the best landing point on Tongatapu. Then I can devote myself to study the other great mystery of the universe: women!

I skipped another visit to the Captain Cook landing point, my first was more then enough. Captain Cook is one of the greatest navigators, ever; the more I read about him, the more respect I have for his achievements. From Alaska to Siberia to Australia, this eighteenth century British navigator left his mark, and explored more of the earth’s surface then anyone else in history. All that, and the big mess in Never-Never Land, to boot! His legacy is controversial, paving the way for colonialism, (which is a sensitive topic in the South Pacific, though not nearly as sensitive as decolonization). But all in all he was a fairly compassionate guy considering what he dealt with in many of his “first contact” situations. After ten of his sailors were killed, cooked, and eaten by Maoris, Cook wrote, “Notwithstanding they are cannibals, they ware naturally of a good disposition.” His time was cut short when he was killed in Hawaii, but in his ten years of exploration he filled in all the blank spots on the Pacific map. His legacy is everywhere in the Pacific; it was Cook who gave Tonga the nickname, “the friendly islands,” and wow Tonga went to town with that. Friendly Islands Bookstore, Friendly Islands Kayaking Adventures, The Friendly Islander Hotel, Friends Café…


In 1777, Cook touched down in Eastern Tongatapu, as back then the capital of the island was in that area (later moved to its present location when having a deep water harbour became important). Supposedly, there was a banyan tree there, and the story goes that he told a local boy to fetch someone important, and then took a nap under the tree while he waited. Or he might have taken a nap, then made his way to the capital to find someone important. There are plenty of variations to the story, but the tree and the nap make an appearance in each, which makes sense because the nap is a staple of Tongan life. It’s a stop on every “sights of the island” tour, but once you arrive…there is no tree, and in its place is a non-attraction-that- tries-to-be-an-attraction, a plaque. He couldn’t have picked a nicer place to land, though, one of the most beautiful coves in Tonga’s massive lagoon.

I stopped here many months ago on my way to Lapaha and the step tombs, and shared my lunch with a local who, I think, offered to set me up with one of his many girlfriends in return.

The plaque reads: Here stood formerly the great banyan Malumalu-o-Fulilangi, under the branches of which the celebrated navigator came ashore on his way to visit Pau, the Tui Tonga on the occasion of the Inasi in the year 1777.

Soon part 2, Christianity...